Finding A Decent Commercial Dog Food Part One Ingredients First

The phrase "healthy dog food" means a lot of different things to different people. Dry dog food is by far the most common and easy to use, but also is the most processed, and carbohydrate-heavy dog food you can find. Personally, I home cook a balanced diet for my dog, Dexter. This allows me to truly customize his dietary needs, and he receives a healthy, fresh, preservative-free meal at every feeding. You too can learn how in, Whats For Dinner, Dexter?

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Today, I want to help you make the best dog food decision for your dog and your lifestyle. One that makes sense for you. This dog food blog is just meant to shed a little light on how to choose a commercial pet food if thats your choice. I will cover a raw diet, canned dog food, and dry dog food. My food recommendations will provide you with some ideas, and companies to look into, it is by far not a complete list. But, hopefully, my tips, and what to look for will teach you how to read and understand pet food labels.

So, here we go. First up, the ingredient list. This is such a crucial part in determining the actual meat portion of your dogs food. So often, people are swayed by the images of the pet food bag, celebrity endorsements or their friends. But, Im asking you to put those images, and endorsements aside, and flip over the bag and read the ingredient list.

The label. Dogs need meat. Dogs need a good portion of meat. When I home cook Dexters meal, I shoot for 70% meat, 15% fruits and vegetables and 15% healthy grains or beans. If you are reading a pet food label, and looking for a high-quality, meat-rich diet, minimally the first 3-5 ingredients listed should be a named meat source such as salmon, turkey, chicken or beef. This can be followed by a few fruits, veggies, and grains. Remember, a label is listed by weight, so you want your meat up there at the top. If you have a meat source or two, followed by a potato or grain, you are losing your meat.

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Heres an example taken from Primals Duck Formula: Duck, Duck Necks, Duck Wings, Organic Kale, Duck Hearts, Duck Gizzards, Organic Carrots, Organic Squash, Duck Livers, Organic Broccoli, Organic Apples, Blueberries, Cranberries, Organic Pumpkin Seeds, Organic Sunflower Seeds, Montmorillonite Clay, Organic Parsley, Organic Apple Cider Vinegar, Salmon Oil, Organic Coconut Oil, Organic Quinoa Sprout Powder, Dried Organic Kelp, Alfalfa, Vitamin E Supplement, Mixed Tocopherols (natural preservative).

Heres an example of Merricks Duck Formula: Deboned Duck, Duck Meal, Sweet Potatoes, Peas, Potatoes, Pea Protein, Duck Fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), Natural Flavor, Potato Protein, Organic Alfalfa, Salt, Minerals (Zinc Sulfate, Iron Amino Acid Complex, Zinc Amino Acid Complex, Manganese Amino Acid Complex, Copper Amino Acid Complex, Potassium Iodide, Cobalt Amino Acid Complex, Sodium Selenite), Vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin B12 Supplement, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Niacin, Riboflavin Supplement, Biotin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Folic Acid, Thiamine Mononitrate), Choline Chloride, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Dried Lactobacillus plantarum Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus casei Fermentation Product, Dried Enterococcus faecium Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus acidophilus Fermentation Product, Rosemary Extract.

Can you see how one ingredient list is much heavier in meat? Then take a look at the squash, potato, pea list. Not that any of those items is bad in themselves, but the shear quantity of Merrick vs. Primal. That means there are a lot of carbohydrate foods vs. meat.

Lets look at yet another pet food label. This dog food doesnt even have meat as the first ingredient. There are also lots of potatoes and peas.

Natural Balance Potato and Duck Formula: Potatoes, Duck Meal, Duck, Canola Oil (preserved with natural mixed tocopherols), Potato Protein, Potato Fiber, Natural Flavor, Dicalcium Phosphate, Sodium Chloride, Calcium Carbonate, Salmon Oil, Flaxseed, Potassium Chloride, Choline Chloride, Taurine, Natural Mixed Tocopherols, L-Carnitine, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Vitamin E Supplement, Iron Proteinate, Zinc Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Potassium Iodide, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B-1), Manganese Proteinate, Manganous Oxide, Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin A Supplement, Biotin, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Manganese Sulfate, Sodium Selenite, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B-6), Vitamin B-12 Supplement, Riboflavin (Vitamin B-2), Vitamin D-3 Supplement, Folic Acid

Finally, we can view one of the worst dog foods out there, Beneful. You might be shocked when you read the ingredient list and, unfortunately, there are plenty of other low-quality, dog foods out there, just as bad.

Beneful Original Formula: Ground yellow corn, chicken by-product meal, corn gluten meal, whole wheat flour, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols, rice flour, beef, soy flour, meat and bone meal, propylene glycol, sugar, tricalcium phosphate, salt, phosphoric acid, potassium chloride, animal digest, sorbic acid (a preservative), mono and dicalcium phosphate, dried spinach, dried peas, dried carrots, L-Lysine monohydrochloride, calcium propionate (a preservative), choline chloride, zinc sulfate, Vitamin E supplement, ferrous sulfate, manganese sulfate, Red 40, niacin, Vitamin A supplement, Yellow 6, Yellow 5, copper sulfate, Vitamin B-12 supplement, calcium pantothenate, Blue 2, thiamine mononitrate, garlic oil, pyridoxine hydrochloride, riboflavin supplement, Vitamin D-3 supplement, calcium iodate, menadione sodium bisulfite complex (source of Vitamin K activity), folic acid, biotin, sodium selenite.

I honestly want to cry when I read that list. Some of those ingredients are not only unhealthy, but actually toxic! Look a few up for yourself. You can start with propylene glycol. Beef is the only real meat in there, and that is so far down the list. I highlighted animal, meat and bone because they are not named items. Meaning, animal, meat or bone is very likely your neighborhood dog that was euthenized! Yes, that is a true statement.

Here are 10 ingredients that are never in any of Dexters food or treats.

1. Flavors of any kind, natural or artificial- No artificial or natural "flavors" of any kind.  If it says "flavor" in the ingredient list, back on the shelf it goes.  Its not real food guys.  And if its not a real food ingredient, it  has no place in my dogs treat, or dog food.
2. Added salt, regular or sea salt- Nope, no reason to add salt in my dogs treat.  Every living creature needs sodium in their diet, but too much can cause problems such as seizures, diarrhea & extra water intake.  A lot of foods have natural occurring sodium, so you do not need extra salt added to treats.
3. Sugar or any kind including high corn fructose, corn syrup or cane sugar- I shouldnt need to tell you this.  If we add sugar or high corn fructose we are truly just adding empty calories.  Not only are these ingredients bad for our dogs health, they will also hop them up & they can become hyperactive. 
4. Sorbitol-A sugar commonly found in berries, but prepared synthetically.
5. By-products or digest- Ewww  I want to make sure my dog receives healthy food not what is left on the floor of some meat manufacturing plant.  Or carcasses from veterinarian practices!  Scary, isnt it?  Again, I want to know what is in that bag of treats.
6. Coloring, artificial or natural- Why?  Why would a pet treat manufacture put dye or coloring in my dogs treat?  To please the consumers eyes of course.  Especially when we are talking about artificial food coloring.  Artificial anything is a chemical process & has a long list of possible side effects.  And dont be fooled by "natural food coloring".  Natural can be made by things like bugs & rocks!
7. Animal fat or anything "animal" "meat"- What kind of animal or meat?  Again, what the heck is in there anyway?  When I read it, I should have a very clear picture of what it is.
8. Chemical Preservatives - Chemical preservatives of any kind should be avoided.  Healthy does not equate to chemicals.  No BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene), BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole), Ethoxyquin, TBHQ (tertiary butylhydroquinone), Propyl Gallate, Propylene glycol, Sodium Nitrite.  BHA, BHT & Ethoxyquin  are banned in human foods.
9. Corn, wheat or soy-A lot of our dog friends are allergic, or have a low tolerance to these ingredients.  According to PetCareRX, that excessive soy may contain estrogen that might provide some estrogen-like activity in your dog & contribute to slightly lower thyroid hormone levels.
10. Glycerin, vegetable glycerin or glycerole-Glycerin or glycerole can actually be produced as a by product of diesel fuel!  It will be unlikely you will know the difference from reading the ingredient list (although vegetable glycerin is plant based, not from fuel).  This is an ingredient in dog treats that helps make a treat soft & sugary.  It is not uncommon for dogs to get a big case of diarrhea from eating treats with this product.  Dexter is one of them.

Food for thought, for sure. Stay tuned for my next installment, which will cover the processing of dog food. Dont miss out, sign up for my newsletter and follow me on Facebook.

Do you need extra dog training help?  I offer in-person,  phone consultations, weekend dog retreats and public seminars.  Contact me today for details.

Tonya Wilhelm-Global Dog Training http://www.globaldogtraining.com

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Teaching A Dog Not To Jump You First

Dogs are very social creatures, and a friendly dogs initial greeting reaction is to sniff and lick our faces.  Since we are taller than the average dog, this means they jump up to say hello. Not something us humans particularly appreciate, or at least not all the time.  And if you are the "not all the time" kind of person, I urge you to make that a never.  Dogs really have a hard time knowing when we think its ok, and when we would rather them not.  They dont know the difference between your Sunday best, or your grubby weekend attire.

Teaching your dog not to jump up during greeting isnt about teaching your dog what not to do, but rather teaching your dog what TO DO.  You can teach your dog to go find his toy, go to his crate, keep four on the floor, or butt on the ground.  I tend to teach butt on the ground behaviors first. 

I love teaching dogs and coaching dog parents how to teach their dogs to ask politely ie. butt on the ground when they want something.  If a dog wants petting, wants you to toss the dog toy, eat dinner, go outside....butt on the ground first.  And I dont want you to have to tell your dog to put his butt on the ground / SIT, I want him to do it automatically.  I think by teaching our dogs to think for themselves, they understand a concept much better, and it sticks.

First, you must teach your dog at least an idea of the SIT behavior before you can expect him to offer it on his own. Put a healthy dog treat right to your dog’s nose, and move your hand slowly in an arc above your dogs head and back. As soon as his rump hits the floor say "YES!" and follow quickly with a treat. Repeat this process until he is easily putting his butt on the ground.  Tip:  If your dog is leaping to get the treat, your treat lure is too high.  Place your hand with the treat right ON his nose, so there isnt any jumping to follow your lure, or to eat the treat.

Now that your dog has a basic understanding of putting his butt on the ground, its time to incorporate that to offering this behavior when he wants something.  Again, this will lead to an offered sit for your attention instead of jumping.

Grab a handful of high-value treats, or healthy dog food and do a quick round of SIT sessions. After, say, 3 sets, just smile at your dog, do not provide any luring or words. As soon as his butt hits the floor say "YES!" and give him a jackpot of treats. Quickly take a few playful steps away from your dog and stop and smile at him again. As soon as his butt hits the floor again, say "YES!" and treat. Repeat this game running around the house or yard.

You can vary the offered sit by doing the same process before other events that your dog wants to participate in. For example, if you are about ready to toss your dogs ball during a game of fetch, hold the ball close to your chest, smile at your dog and wait. As soon as his butt hits the floor, toss the ball. If your dog jumps up at you and the ball, do not say anything, just wait for the correct behavior. This is part of the learning process. He will be learning that the “jumping up” behavior does NOT get him access to things he wants, but the “butt on the ground” behavior does - a very good life lesson for your dog to learn. Tip: Do not tell your dog to sit during these lessons; the point of the offered sit is that your dog is thinking through the process and realizing on his own that sit makes good things happen and jumping up does not.

Now that you have incorporated various offered SIT behaviors with your dog for a variety of days and sessions, start to wait for your dog to SIT before you greet him.  He doesnt have to SIT/STAY, but if he jumps up, stop his attention and wait for the SIT again, and immediately pet and/or treat.  You will be amazed at how quickly your dog can learn to offer a SIT instead of jumping.  But, you must be consistent.  No, its ok one day and not the other. 

For more tips, visit my previous post- Polite Dog & Human Greeting Pt. 1.

Do you need extra dog training help?  I offer in-person,  phone consultations, weekend dog retreats and public seminars.  Contact me today for details.

   

Tonya Wilhelm-Global Dog Training http://www.globaldogtraining.com

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Toledo Dog Training Offers Pet First Aid Training

Toledo Dog Training Offers Pet First Aid Training During National Pet First Aid Awareness Month

According to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), 25 percent more pets would survive if just one pet first aid technique were applied prior to getting emergency veterinary care. American Red Cross Pet First Aid Classes provides participants with pet-saving techniques and shows participants how to recognize emergencies and confidently respond to life-threatening conditions.

Toledo Dog Training,  is offering area dog owners and pet-care providers the opportunity to gain crucial dog first aid and CPR skills that could prove life saving should their pet ever experience an emergency. Pet First Aid classes give pet owners the confidence and skills necessary to tend to unexpected emergencies until they can get their pet to a veterinarian.

Toledo Dog Training’s Pet First Aid Class is a 4-week training course. Led by Tonya Wilhelm, founder of Toledo Dog Training, this program covers a variety of dog first aid techniques ranging from caring for an unconscious dog, performing CPR, caring for a dog in shock, and many more. Additionally, the class includes a dog first aid manual, and DVD, and upon successful completion each participant will receive a certificate.

“Learning pet first aid is an essential skill for every responsible owner and pet-care provider,” said Tonya Wilhelm, owner of Toledo Dog Training. “I was delighted when the local Red Cross contacted me about presenting this opportunity to our local community.

4 Weeks 1hr Classes $60-Includes Dog First Aid manual(116pg) & DVD
Class Day/Time/Dates 2009
----Class is attended without dogs
Thur 7pm (6-25; 7-2; 7-9; 7-16)


For additional information and registration, please visit www.toledodogtraining.com or call 419-699-7785

Tonya Wilhelm-Global Dog Training http://www.globaldogtraining.com

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